A COMPARATIVE RESEARCH ON TAFFATIE FROM HISTORICAL FABRICS
1Ankara Müzik ve Güzel Sanatlar Üniversitesi MGÜ MYO Geleneksel El Sanatları Programı
2İstanbul Aydın Üniversitesi, Güzel Sanatlar Fakültesi, Moda ve Tekstil Tasarımı Bölümü
Keywords: Traditional Silk Fabric, Fabric Analysis, Taffeta, Vale, Canfes
Silk is used in the warp and weft of taffeta fabrics. It is a type of silk fabric woven. The name taffeta can be found in historical documents since the 14th century. It was attempted to follow the historical development of taffeta fabric from important sources such as the 1453 Heritage section book, the Istanbul Specialization Law of 1502, the 1516 Uzun Hasan Law, the 1640 narh registers, the 1455-1764 Bursa court registers. However, during their searches, it was noticed that no detailed study was done on taffeta fabric. The aim of the study is to focus on the historical development of taffeta fabric, the origin of the word, its types and features, and to document the fabric identities by analysing the 20th century samples that can be accessed from the AHBV Ülker Muncuk Museum. In addition, attention has been drawn to the difference of this fabric, which is constantly similar to vale and canfes fabrics in written sources, with other fabrics. The article is important in terms of determining the difference between the fabrics produced today. In the research, scanning and analysis methods based on descriptions were used. This essay is limited to the accessible taffeta fabrics which dated between the 14th and the 20th century.
As a result of the research, based on the discourses in the sources and the fabrics analysed, taffeta fabric; It can be defined as a full, showy type of fabric with silk warp and weft, which is woven with tabby, generally does not undergo any heat treatment after being woven. In taffeta, the similarity of the yarn structure of the warp and weft, having more twist, not being processed after weaving are the quality elements that are the structural determinants of the fabric. Considering the variety and the areas it touches in the written documents, it suggests that it has woven a large amount of taffeta fabric. Because; Taffeta fabrics are known by various names according to the colours they are used, the place they touch, their quality and whether they are local or not. Considering the areas of use, it can be said that it has a very special usage area such as both clothing and home textile, space covering and even socks. The fact that there are many varieties suggests that there may be structural differences in the fabric. In this case, we can say that the common feature is double twisted silk warp and silk weft and plain weave. It has been seen in the written sources that taffeta fabric is generally compared to vale and canfes fabric. All three fabrics are thought to be compared to each other because they are woven with silk thread and plain weave. However, all three fabrics have different properties from each other. As a result of the investigations made in this direction, taffeta fabric; It has been evaluated in terms of historical development, knitting type, colour, place of use, quality, post-weaving processes. Today, this type of fabric continues to be woven with rayon (rayon) and nylon mix raw materials and is mostly used as evening dresses, bridal gowns and lining in the market. Apart from this, it is seen that tafetta (taffeta) is preferred in the production of coats and raincoats in well-known textile brands.