NATURAL DYEING AND NATURAL DYEING OF MOHAIR AND HEMP YARN WITH WOWEN TEXTILE SURFACE WORKS
Sema TAĞI1
, Şengül AYDIN2, Esra BEKİROĞLU2
1Ankara Hacı Bayram Veli Üniversitesi, Sanat ve Tasarım Fakültesi, Tekstil Tasarımı Bölümü
2Ankara Hacı Bayram Veli Üniversitesi, Lisansüstü Eğitim Enstitüsü , Tekstil Tasarımı Anabilim Dalı
Keywords: Mohair, Hemp, Natural Dye, Fastness, Weaving
Abstract
In recent years, recycling and sustainable ecological resources in textile design have come to the fore, and it has made the cultivation and use of dye plants more important. Therefore, studies on coloring natural fibers by natural colorants are attracting more attention. In the design and imp- lementation of textile surfaces, the ability to dye the fibers with vegetable dyes in the desired way provides a significant advantage to the textile designer in reaching the targeted texture and creating original and ecological products. With this study, it is aimed to emphasize that natural dyeing, which is traditionally used in the dyeing of wool carpet yarns in our country, can be used by textile desig- ners to obtain unique products in every field of textile with the advantages it provides.
For this purpose, in order to obtain colors according to the weaving surfaces desired to be obtained by starting from the visuals suitable for the predetermined theme; Weaving samples were produced by dyeing different yarns by choosing the appropriate plant, mordant and method.
Within the context of the research; mohair yarn, mohair roving and hemp yarns were subjected to dyeing with the proper mordan and method using pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), walnut (Juglans regia), onion (Allium cepa), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.) and root dye (Rubia tinc- torum L.). The colors obtained from the dyeings and the wet and dry rubbing fastness values of the dyed yarns were determined and given in tables.
In the surface designs, the theme was created by being inspired by the tree and the moss texture on the trees, story boards were prepared, and woven textile surface works were carried out on dobby looms based on the visuals. As a result of the preliminary trials, yarns with relatively good fastness values and the most suitable yarns to reflect the theme were determined. Textile surface studies were made using these determined colors and yarns.